Why Milk And Meat Still Matter: The Real-Life Impact Of Nutrition Policy On Women And Families

Grace Wanjiku stands in the local market in Kibera, counting shillings in her palm. In her other hand, she holds a small plastic cup—enough for half a litre of milk that costs around 50 shillings (about 40 cents). Her three-year-old daughter tugs at her skirt, and Grace knows this milk could be the difference between proper growth and another month of worry about her child’s development. Every choice counts when you’re stretching 200 shillings to feed a family for the day.

This daily decision—whether to buy milk or save those precious shillings for ugali—might seem small, but it reflects a much larger debate happening in international policy circles.

The UN’s New Nutrition Policy Concerns

A new UN declaration aimed at eliminating trans-fatty acids from global diets has sparked concern among nutrition experts who fear it could inadvertently discourage consumption of milk and meat in the world’s poorest communities. The draft resolution, currently under review by member states, proposes to eliminate all trans-fatty acids from diets as part of efforts to reduce non-communicable diseases like heart disease and diabetes.

The declaration will be presented for endorsement at the UN General Assembly in September, following discussions at the UN’s High-Level Political Forum running from 14 to 23 July.

More than 115 experts from Africa, Europe and the Americas have written an open letter warning that a blanket commitment to eliminate all trans-fatty acids risks unnecessarily discouraging consumption of highly nutritious dairy and meat. The letter, coordinated by the Nairobi-based International Livestock Research Institute, warns that ‘once again, the burden will fall heaviest on low- and middle-income countries, where nutrient-rich meat, milk and dairy are already under-consumed.’

Not all trans-fats are created equal. Industrial trans-fats, created through hydrogenation of vegetable oils and found in processed foods, are genuinely harmful—they increase bad cholesterol, reduce good cholesterol and contribute to heart disease and diabetes. If you’ve been wondering about how ultra-processed foods affect your wellbeing, this is part of the picture.

Natural trans-fats found in small amounts in milk and meat from grass-eating animals like cows and goats are entirely different. Research shows these natural trans-fats, including vaccenic acid and conjugated linoleic acid, may actually offer health benefits. A 2008 study found that trans vaccenic acid, a natural trans-fat in dairy and beef, can reduce risk factors for heart disease, diabetes and obesity.

The amounts matter too. Natural trans-fats occur in such small quantities that they don’t pose the same health risks as industrial varieties, and some studies suggest they may be protective, particularly against type 2 diabetes.

Why This Matters For Kenyan Families

For Grace and thousands of mothers like her across Kenya, these policy discussions have real consequences. In 2023, one in every five Africans faced hunger, and around a third of children under five were affected by stunting. Kenya specifically sees about 26% of children under five suffering from stunting, with some counties like Kitui and West Pokot experiencing rates as high as 46%.

Milk has been shown to be particularly powerful in combating these problems. Research demonstrates that a child who drinks milk daily can grow up to three per cent more in a month than a child who doesn’t. Yet average annual milk consumption can be as low as just one kilogram per person per year in some developing countries.

The economic reality makes these nutrition facts even more pressing. In Kenya, a family of four needs roughly $1,910 monthly for basic living costs, with food accounting for about a third of household spending. Milk prices have risen significantly in recent years, from about 50 to 100 shillings per litre, forcing mothers to make difficult choices between milk and other essentials.

Expert Voices On The Ground

‘A single glass of milk is among the most affordable, nutrient-rich foods available—milk has been shown to reduce stunting in children and lessen the burden of hunger,’ said Namukolo Covic, nutrition expert and Director General’s Representative to Ethiopia at the International Livestock Research Institute.

Covic points out that ‘industrially-produced trans-fatty acids come from food processing, a sector that is still in its infancy in many African countries. These countries have the opportunity to create a new food future as their food systems develop.’

Ruth Oniang’o, Professor in Food Science and Nutrition and Editor-in-Chief of the African Journal of Food, Agriculture, Nutrition and Development, emphasises the need for nuanced policy. ‘The contribution of animal-source foods to trans-fatty acids is very low compared to industrially derived trans-fats and should be weighed against their contributions to nutrient density, given their nutritional benefits even in small quantities.’

She adds: ‘For people in low-income settings, animal-source foods are often the only reliable and available source of essential nutrients. We need a nuanced approach supported by sustainability solutions.’

The Daily Budget Reality

Back in the market, Grace’s calculation isn’t just about shillings—it’s about vitamins A and B12, calcium, zinc and high-quality protein that her daughter needs for proper development. The milk she’s considering contains energy-dense nutrients that are difficult to find elsewhere at this price point. Understanding the real cost of eating well becomes crucial when every shilling counts.

Many mothers like Grace rely on informal milk markets where prices are more affordable than formal retailers. These markets are crucial for low-income families, but they’re also vulnerable to policy changes that could label their products as problematic due to natural trans-fat content.

The choice becomes even more complicated when you consider that some families survive on as little as $5 per day. In these circumstances, every purchase decision involves weighing immediate hunger against long-term nutrition—and mothers carry the weight of these decisions daily. For many, it’s about making simple choices in impossible circumstances.

What This Means For Your Family

Industrial trans-fats in processed foods deserve elimination, but natural trans-fats in milk and meat serve different purposes in different communities. For families with choices, the message remains clear: limit processed foods high in industrial trans-fats while recognising that moderate consumption of dairy and lean meat can be part of a healthy diet.

For families like Grace’s, where choices are limited and every nutrient counts, dairy and meat provide irreplaceable nutritional benefits that shouldn’t be discouraged by blanket policies. The research supports this approach. Studies from Kenya show that the informal milk market significantly contributes to nutritional status, particularly in combating micronutrient deficiencies and reducing stunting related to poor diet.

When we talk about making healthcare and nutrition affordable, we’re talking about choices like Grace’s. She makes her decision and hands over the 50 shillings. She knows that this glass of milk contains more than just calories—it represents her daily effort to give her daughter the best possible start in life, one nutritious choice at a time.

The question remains: should international policy make that choice harder or easier for mothers like her?